My inner child is a delinquent at Black Rock Elementary

Looking for some cool gifts to hand out at Burning Man?  I ordered 200 of these and would like to share the bulk discount with y’all.  You can buy 5, 10, 20, or more.  I’m not selling single stickers because the intent is to re-gift these.  If I sell just 1, that’s like retail of a logo-ed item, which is not cool.

Item Description:
11″ x 3″ printed on durable vinyl that is 4.5 mil thick.  Made by VistaPrint.com
Man logo is a vector image, so it will print smooth and pretty.  Text says “My inner child is a delinquent at Black Rock Elementary” in black letters on a background of a khaki sunburst, with red boarders.

Please order by Sunday Aug 7th, 2012.  I will take down the form after I’ve sold half my stash.  The other half will be given away on the playa to people appearing to display the qualities of a child delinquent.   PayPal to cboyd7 at hotmail dot com.

Posted in Robot | 1 Comment

How to Build an Evaporative Cooler

Portable Swamp Cooler. Click for larger image.

How to build a low-cost 12 volt evaporative cooler.  My husband and I built two swamp coolers that we use to air condition our tent when we camp in hot, dry weather at Burning Man.  These compact units blow cool air like an air conditioner, but they use just water for evaporation instead of using a compressor or toxic Freon. There are two great designs on the internet for making evaporative coolers for camping.  This blog post enhances one of those designs by providing lots of detail on sourcing parts, comparing options for parts, and a variety of power options.  We built ours for under $40 each and they worked great for cooling a tent and letting us nap in the Nevada desert.  After building one, we hosted a workshop where we helped neighbors build 5 coolers, which let us buy parts in batches and save on shipping costs.

Reference designs:

We used the following materials:

  • 5 gallon bucket from the local hardware store or recycled, $0 – $2.30
  • 12v water pump from Amazon.com, $18.50 + shipping = $20
  • Swamp cooler pad 33.5″ x 24″, $2 – $7
  • Drip irrigation tube 48″ long, Tee connector, diameter should fit your water pump, $5 – $10
  • Recycled PC fan, 12VDC and around 1 to 2 Amps, $0.50 – $4
  • Elbow duct 4″ diameter, $3
  • 12 volt battery, $10 – $20
  • Screws, 4 Short sheet metal screws, $0.50 – $1
  • Quick connect female crimp connectors, sized for your battery
  • Four to eight feet of small gauge wire (20 – 26 gauge)
  • Butt splice connectors, to connect the wires butt to butt, in the gauge of your wire
  • Optional: window screen 33.5″ x 13″, $0 – $6
  • Total:  $40 to $73

Tools that you will need to buy or borrow:

  • Drill
  • Hole saw drill bit, 2″ to 3″ , $13
  • Wire cutters and very small gauge wire strippers, 20 – 26 gage
  • Tin snips for cutting your elbow duct
  • Optional: silicone caulk

How do I choose a good recycled PC fan?

You can get a great deal if your town has a store where you can get recycled computer parts, or perhaps your local Goodwill has electronic stuff.  We got a bunch of fans for 50 cents each at PC Recycle in Seattle.  Or for a bit more money you can buy recycled PC fans off the internet from places like www.vetco.com or www.allelectronics.com.  Or you could pay the full price for a new fan from your local computer store or www.FrozenCPU.com.  Shame on you for paying full price.  Retail is for chumps!

You want to read all those letters and numbers and find “12 VDC” which means 12 volts of direct current.  Direct current is what you get from a battery or solar panel.  Next you want to find a fan that will move a lot of air by drawing a lot of current, so you look at the number preceding the “A” for amps.  For example, “0.11A” or “0.20 Amps” are pathetically weak, and a “1.2A” or “1.6A” fan will blow a lot of air!    The bigger the number, the cooler you will be, and the faster it will drain your battery.  My fan was 1.6A and our little $10 battery ran the fan and pump for 5 hours before we noticed the battery getting low.

Recycled PC fan screwed to lid of bucket. Note the edges of the elbow duct. Click for larger image.

Online the listings will also describe the dimensions of the fan, such as 80mm or 120mm.  The size doesn’t really matter as long as it is in the ballpark of about 80 – 120 millimeters.  You’re going to drill your own mounting holes in the lid of your bucket so the exact size doesn’t matter.  Bring the fan with you to the store when you buy your elbow duct.  Your elbow duct diameter must be smaller than the distance between the corners of the fan’s mounting holes.

The number of wires coming out of the fan also don’t matter for this application.  You will only use power and ground, typically red and black.  The other wires control the speed of the fan if it were connected to a computer, but we don’t care.

Which Swamp Cooler Pad to Buy?  Synthetic or Organic?

You can buy swamp cooler pad that is made of organic or synthetic fibers.  You can read the marketing stuff about which one is better, but here’s my experience from hosting a workshop where a bunch of people built 5 swamp coolers in my yard and some of them used organic and others used synthetic pad.  When you cut the pad, little bits will get everywhere.  The organic pad that got all over our garage and yard was quickly used by birds and squirrels to make energy-efficient nests in the trees.  The synthetic blue bits seemed to get ground into the floor and dirt by our feet.  The synthetic bits were difficult to remove with a shop vac or broom, perhaps because they had some static charge making them cling?  The organic fibers smell like wood chips or hay, and the synthetic pad has a slightly plastic smell.  Neither smell was offensive to me, but some folks didn’t like the  smell of hay when the swamp cooler was operating.

I recommend purchasing a roll of the organic Aspen Cooler Pad, and cut rectangles to share it with friends and neighbors.    We cut one piece of pad into a  33.5″ x 24″ rectangle and then folded it in half, and rolled it into a cylinder that fit inside our bucket.  The instructions on the ePlaya link explain how to cut two perfectly fitted rectangles using the synthetic pad by Duracool.

Battery Options and Solar Energy

For maximum portability, we used a 12 volt sealed lead acid battery for about ten to twenty dollars.  This type of battery is often used to run a computer backup uninterruptible power supply, or UPS.  You will want a battery which can give enough current to both the fan and the water pump, so 1.2 AH rating on the battery is quite sufficient.  AH stands for Amp Hours.  We ran our swamp cooler with the big 1.60 Amp fan for 6 hours and it ran down our battery enough that it wasn’t blowing very hard anymore.  Frys.com and AllElectronics.com sell batteries like this, however you’ll save money on shipping if you buy from a local hobby store, electronics store, or computer store.

If you’re traveling with a car or boat, then you can run your swamp cooler on your 12V vehicle battery.  When we go to Burning Man, we take a deep cycle marine battery that weighs about fifty pounds.  That huge battery runs our lights, a stereo, and our swamp coolers for 9 days.  The marine battery is easily recharged with a small (12″ x 4″) solar panel and a charge controller.

You could try using this solar-powered water pump for $25.  However you would still need a power source for the fan.

Steps to build your Evaporative Cooler

Generally, we followed the instructions for “Cooling your Tent or Van” by FigJam on the ePlaya website.  Here I will reference his instructions and add my own tips and alternatives.

Step 1 Drill Holes in your 5 gallon bucket

FigJam drilled one row of big holes, we drilled two rows of 2″ holes because that’s the size of hole saw that we already owned.  This step is messy and fun.  Use a shop vac to cleanup the mess.  The goal is to maximize air flow through the damp pad, and leave enough water in the bottom of the bucket to cover your water pump for the entire duration of the runtime (e.g. six hours of sleep).

Key considerations on where to drill the holes:

  • Your water pump must be completely submerged or it will run dry and break.  Mark your water line that gives you at least 2 inches of water above your pump intake.  Cut your ventilation holes above that water line.
  • The holes should be at least 4 or 5 inches from the lid of the bucket.  You want the air to come in through the holes, pass through the damp pad, then come out through the fan at the top.   If the air passes through more damp pad, then that’s great!  See pictures.

Step 2 Cut your Screen and Cooler Pad

Two rows of 2″ holes above the water line.

The optional window screen helps to keep the cooler pad and the drippy water inside of your bucket.  I tried gluing the screen to the inside of my bucket, but that didn’t work well, so don’t bother.  The screen and cooler pad should cover all of your ventilation holes.  Measure from the inside bottom of your bucket to at least 3 inches above your ventilation holes.  Leave an inch or two at the top section of the bucket for your PC fan and wires.

You want to force ALL the air through the damp pad.  If air can sneak in the air holes and out through the fan without going through the damp pad, then it won’t be cool!

Option A exact dimensions:  Measure and cut your screen in a trapezoid shape because the bottom circumference of your bucket is closer to 32″ and the top diameter of the bucket is about 33.5″ if you are using the same bucket that I did.    Measure the diameters of the inside of your bucket near the lid and near the bottom, and then do some math (diameter * 3.14 = circumference).  Now measure and cut your window screen and test the fit before measuring and cutting your cooler pad.  For the cooler pad, cut your trapezoid slightly smaller to allow for the thickness of the pad.

Option B Close Enough Engineering:  Cut your screen to a rectangle about 34″ x 13″ and it will overlap some when you stick it in your bucket.  Cut your swamp cooler pad about 33″ by 24″, fold it in half and shove it in your bucket.  Trim it if you have to.

Step 3 Drip Irrigation

FigJam used clear poly tube, we used black drip irrigation tube and a little bit of clear poly tube.    Measure the dimension of your water pump output spout and purchase the appropriate size hose.  Take your pump with you to the store.  Buy whatever is cheap and available by the foot from your local store.  Buy the appropriate size Tee connector for your hose and any connector that you might need to connect the hose to your water pump.

Swamp cooler pad with drip irrigation tube

You’re going to make a halo shape with the irrigation tube. The diameter of your drip tube halo should be about one inch smaller than the dimension of your bucket, so that your tube rests in the middle of your swamp pad ring.  If your halo is too close to the edge of the bucket, then the water will drip out of your ventilation holes.  Again, circumference = diameter * 3.14.  Adjust your circumfrence result to include the amount of the Tee connector that will complete the halo.  Now cut the irrigation tube.  Use the Tee to make the circle first, and then attach a pice of irrigation tube that will go down the middle of your bucket to the pump on the bottom.   Place your halo inside of your bucket with the cooler pad and make any adjustments to the size and shape of your irrigation tube halo.

Next you poke holes in the halo to let the water rain down on the cooler pad.  Carefully place your halo on a flat surface to make the holes on the bottom of the halo so it rains down on the cooler pad, and not up on your fan!  Space the holes equal distant from the next hole, about the same size.  We tried three methods of poking holes in the irrigation tube.  You can use a drill with a very small bit, and be gentle to not drill all the way through the tube!  For more control, you could use a small nail and manually poke the tube, or use a gentle tap from a hammer to poke the hole.  My preference was to use a light weight hammer and two gentle taps for each hole.  A fourth option that we did not try was heating a piece of wire and melting holes into the irrigation tube.

After you poke holes, test your irrigation system.  Put your cooler pad in the bucket.  Pour water in the bucket.  Attach your water pump to the irrigation tube halo and connect the battery.  How much water is coming out?  Enough?  Is the water coming out of all the holes, or just the holes nearest to the Tee connector?  Decide if you want to make your holes larger or make more holes, or scrap your halo and start over with new tube.

Step 4: Install duct on and fan on the Lid

Fan and duct screwed to the bucket lid

Wear gloves so you don’t cut your hand on the sharp metal.  Cut a hole in the lid so the duct just fits through snugly.  Mark a 1 inch line on one end of the duct.   Use the tin snips to cut narrow triangle-shaped notches out of the elbow duct, to form little flaps.   Stick the duct through the lid and bend the flaps you just made.  The flaps should be on the inside (bottom) of the lid, and the elbow duct should be on the outside (top) of the bucket’s lid.

Hold your fan against the bottom of the lid so that at least 3 of the four mounting holes on the fan will go through metal flaps and lid.  You want your four screws to securely sandwich the metal flaps between the plastic lid and the fan.

You want to buy sheet metal screws.  They have very coarse thread, which means fewer turns per inch.  You also want them to be fairly short screws, shorter than an inch.

First use a drill to make a tiny hole in the bucket lid.  Then just use a manual screwdriver to push the sheet metal screw from the top of the bucket lid, through the bucket, the metal flap and the fan.  alternatively, you could use a nut and a bolt, but if you try this option then you must use a lock washer to prevent the nut from shaking lose.

Step 5: Wire everything together

Connect all the wires.  First strip the wires to expose a good 1/3″ (1 cm) of copper core of the wires.  We used butt splice connectors that look something like this (click for example).  Decide how long a wire you want from your swamp cooler to your battery.  The wires from the PC fan will likely be really short, so use the butt splice connectors to make them much longer.  Use Red wire for the positive wires, or use black wire and mark it with a flag of red tape.  You’re going to make a Y shape when you connect the positive wire from the fan and the positive wire from the pump to a single wire using the butt connector.  The singe wire will then connect to your battery.  This is called wiring in parallel.  Do the same thing for the ground wires.

Our battery used Quick connect female crimp connectors.  Your battery may use a different shape of connector.

You’re done!  Test it a few times before you make any significant modifications.  Optionally, seal the gaps around the elbow duct with caulk.

Troubleshooting:

If water gets outside your bucket and onto the floor: Perhaps you need more swamp cooler pad to absorb the water, or perhaps your pump is squirting too hard in a direction that aims the stream directly at the ventilation holes.

Air doesn’t feel very cool: touch your swamp cooler pad and check for uniform wetness.  Verify that the pump is working  and the water is dripping uniformly around the halo.

FAQ:

How much water does it use?  Answer:  I add about a gallon of cold water that we drain from our drink cooler to the bottom.  Then each day we top it off with another pint or quart, depending on how much we run the cooler during the morning sleep or afternoon nap.

How long do the batteries last?  Answer: the batteries really depend on a lot of factors, such as wattage of your fan & pump, age of your battery, and temperature of the battery.  We topped ours off with a tiny solar panel (the size of an ipad).  If you plan to go completely nocturnal at Burning Man, then you will want a small, deep cycle marine battery to run your coolers for 6 – 8 hours every day while you sleep.  Keep the battery in the shade and off the ground with two wood blocks or a milk crate to allow air circulation.

Posted in Make: | Tagged , , , , , , | 35 Comments

New Maker Lab, Plasma Speaker kits, LED Umbrella

To really learn, to understand the whole concept and not just memorize a formula or scientific law, you have to get your hands on things and make stuff.  Education experts call it kinesthetic learning.  Scientists call it inquiry and experimentation.  Hear it, see it, do it, teach it to another student, get it!

On Saturday morning I attended the Emerald City Makers meetup, which was hosted at Student RND in Bellevue.  Both groups are dedicated to helping people make stuff and share their knowledge and skills with others.

“Student Research and Development (StudentRND) is a student-run non-profit organization that aims to inspire students to learn more about science and technology by offering hands-on opportunities for students to explore beyond and experiment with the concepts that were so laboriously covered in school textbooks,” it says on their web site.  Both K-12 schools and colleges have limited budgets and time to lead students through experimentation, observation, and engineering projects.  Adam Ryman gave us a tour of the facility.   The Student RND lab is available for anyone to drop by, or you can come to a scheduled event.

Stencil for Plasma Speaker circuit board

Adam demonstrated the Plasma Speakers, which play music through an arc that vibrates the air to make hot and dangerous musical notes!  You can buy or build your own plasma speaker by donating to the Student RND Kickstarter project.

Adam conducts the PVC Pipe Organ at Student RND in Bellevue WA

Adam also demonstrated a PVC Pipe Organ.  The DIY Pipe Organ is loud and out of tune, but almost ready for playing Whiter Shade of Pale!

Students aren’t the only ones who lack hands-on learning and understanding.  “I’m a software guy, and I don’t know why my circuit isn’t working,” was a common statement made by mid-career adults at the Emerald City Makers meetup.  We remember the formulas from high school physics, V=IR (voltage = current * resistance), and generally know how capacitors and diodes work.  However, applying those formulas to troubleshooting a real circuit board in your hands gives you a completely different level of understanding.

Patrick brought his little girl and his radio project to the meetup to get some help with a power problem.  We showed him how to set his multimeter to VDC and check the voltage across the solders on the On/Off switch.  Power wasn’t getting past the switch.  Either the solder was bad or the switch wasn’t working on the inside.  Both Patrick and his very young daughter were eager to learn and they showed the patience and persistence to keep trying.  I’m excited to see Patrick demonstrate the maker philosophy and pass it on to the next generation!

Austin's LED LampAustin made this LED lamp, despite having two left hands!

Other makers brought their finished and unfinished projects for show and tell.  Austin Spafford brought UV light responsive beads that change from white to colors, Lego’s that he purchased in bulk from the mall, and a creative use of LEDs in a soccer-ball shaped lamp.

Craig Zupke showed off his Useless Machine, which he crafted out of wood, a tiny gear motor and an analog circuit.  I really need to make a Useless Machine for a Father’s Day gift next year!

April Atwood brought an umbrella that she’s designing for a fashion show that uses an Arduino and blue LEDs inside the clear plastic for a dynamic display on a rainy Seattle night!

LED Umbrella project on Instructables.com

If you’re attending SeaCompression on October 15th, 2011, then you might try making your own blinky umbrella or maybe a clear plastic raincoat with blinky LEDs!  A blinky umbrella is a great example of making something functional and awesome while learning about circuits, programming, and working with adhesives.  If you don’t want to program or solder, then you could purchase a string of battery operated LEDs and simply attach them inside your umbrella!

Are you inspired?  What are you going to make?

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Seattle Maker Faire meeting with Dale Dougherty

I met with Dale Dougherty, founder of Make Magazine and Maker Faire!  We met last night, August 5th, to discuss producing Seattle Mini Maker Faire 2012 along with members of Ignition Northwest and Jigsaw Renaissance, two amazing non-profit community organizations.  Dale is a cheerful, modest optimist!  At least, that’s my impression of him.  We had a  lively discussion  over  drinks and grilled cheese sammiches.   I’m filled with excitement and optimism after engaging with so many passionate makers and doers!

“Maker Faire is about bringing community together.  It’s a ‘fair’ because it’s supposed to be FUN!” – Dale Dougherty

Dale and the members of INW and Jigsaw brainstormed about logistics and high level goals.  We brainstormed for at least an hour about finding a venue in the Seattle area that would accommodate 50 makers and a wide variety of strange maker projects.  How can we find a venue that safely displays glass making, welding, canning, vehicles and large sculptures on a day that will likely be rainy?  Some great ideas included renting a venue space with “normal” indoor conference space and also an outdoor covered parking garage for makers who need ventilation and non-flammable shelter.   Some of the local community colleges and tech schools meet those requirements.    On Monday I’ll resume my calls to venues.

We talked about all the amazing groups and events in the Seattle region who are living and promoting the Maker Lifestyle!  Dorkbot, Eastside Makers, Seattle Robotics Society, Urban Craft Uprising, Ignite Seattle, Hazard Factory, Yarn Bombers, the galleries in the public art walks and every little urban farm and pea patch in the county!  We want to invite all of them to participate in Seattle Mini Maker Faire!

Dale told stories of his efforts and best practices running World Maker Faire in the Bay Area, Detroit and New York.  I hope to learn from his experience, and make plenty of my own mistakes!  Dale and his team at Maker Faire have written a 104 page Playbook which describes best practices for creating a Mini Maker Faire.  I’ve read most of the PDF doc (skimmed some parts) and am working towards drafting a budget, volunteer job descriptions, and a project time line.

Dale and the members of Ignition Northwest and Jigsaw Renaissance discussed the fun topics of insurance, budget, union venues, and contracts.  Thank you to Mary, Ivan, Budi, and everyone who attended last night from INW and Jigsaw for offering to work countless hours helping me plan, select and sign contracts with a local venue!  If you have any interest in volunteering some long hours to help with these necessary requirements, then please contact me!

I will schedule another meeting soon and expand the invite list to include the makers and leaders from many of the maker spaces and groups in the Seattle area.  Stay tuned!

You can subscribe to this blog and Like the Seattle Mini Maker Faire Facebook page.  Soon I’ll buy a domain and start a separate site for Seattle Mini Maker Faire communications.

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Seattle Mini Maker Faire 2012

Planning is underway to produce Seattle Mini Maker Faire 2012.  In recent weeks I’ve attended Kitsap Mini Maker Faire and Vancouver Mini Maker Faire.  We are following the expert advice from Maker Faire producers and Ignition Nortwest event producers.  In this early planning phase, we are doing four things simultaneously:

  1. Securing a venue and a date.
  2. Estimating a budget.
  3. Pursuing sources of revenue including civic and private grants and sponsorships.
  4. Meeting with Makers and Crafters in the Northwest who are the engines that will make this Maker Faire happen!

Venue

I’m getting quotes for cost at venues including Seattle Center, various Community Colleges, and larger community spaces which can accommodate 70 six-foot tables (booths), hundreds of chairs, demo space for robots and larger objects, and plenty of room for pedestrians and strollers to move between interactive workshops.  The venue also must have adequate restrooms for families, wheelchair access, parking for families with car seats and strollers, and public transportation.

Date

It rains in Seattle.  It also snows.  When the sun shines in the few summer months, there are dozens of weekend events competing for attention.  We’re planning to host an all-indoor Seattle Mini Maker Faire during one of the rainy spring months of 2012.  Please post in the comments the dates of any big competing events in the spring of 2012.

Updated in 1/28/12:  The Date for Seattle Mini Maker Faire is now set for June 2nd and 3rd, 2012 at the Seattle Center!

The Maker Faire official website states the following about what Maker Faire is and is not:

Maker Faire brings together families and individuals to celebrate the Do-It-Yourself (DIY) mindset and showcase all kinds of incredible projects. At Maker Faire, you’ll find arts and crafts, science and engineering, food and music, fire and water but what makes this event special is that all these interesting projects and smart, creative people belong together. They are actively and openly creating a maker culture.

In its simplest form, Maker Faire creates conversations with Makers. It is a show-and-tell format for people of all ages that brings out the “kid” in all of us. Maker Faire is a community-based learning event that inspires everyone to become a maker and connect to people and projects in their local community. Yet, Maker Faire is a “fair” which should be fun and engaging.

What Maker Faire is Not

Maker Faire is not a trade show. We see Maker Faire primarily as an opportunity for people to share ideas and projects. So Maker Faire is non-commercial in nature, in that we don’t want it dominated by traditional sales and marketing. Instead, we hope to create authentic interactions that satisfy each person’s interests. At the same time, we’re not anti-commercial. We are grateful to have businesses as sponsors. We also allow makers to show their work and offer items for sale. We want to help makers succeed in starting a business, if that’s their goal. However, we don’t want to change the look and feel or spirit of the event.”

Get Involved!

Here’s how you can get involved in this early planning phase:

  • Fill out the Maker Application and offer to:
    • produce and teach a workshop in a classroom setting.
    • produce and teach drop-in workshops in a “booth” setting.
    • host an interactive booth that shows making or crafting something neat-o keen-o.
  • Help procure corporate or civic sponsorship!
    • Donate money, professional services or materials to the event.
    • Sponsor the event!  We are looking for sponsors who can donate money, materials or services in exchange for your logo on our advertising materials and your logo on display at the event.
East Bay Mini Maker Faire East Bay Mini Maker Faire East Bay Mini Maker Faire

What Goes Into Creating Maker Faire?

Maker Faire is truly a co-creation. It’s a collaboration of many people, especially makers, who each contribute to the event. However, Maker Faire also requires a strong person or core group with the vision and passion to create the context for all this to happen. Maker Faire requires extensive preparation and planning in advance of the event and complex coordination with a larger team during the event.

Posted in Make:, Maker Faire, Robot | Tagged , , , , , | 7 Comments

Recombobulation Station

The Milwaukee airport has a “Recombobulation” area just past the security zone, where passengers can put their shoes back on, repack their bags after x-ray, and generally recombobulate all their discombobulated baubles. The word is so much fun and the idea so universal, that I want to make a Recombobulation Station in my camp at Burning Man.  The Recombobulation Station will be a shaded seating area where my campmates and I can relax, get ourselves put back together, refresh electrolytes, and maybe rediscover ourselves amidst the chaos. 

I already have the shade area, chairs, foot baths, and cup holders.  Now, I need a sign!  I have 75 feet of green electroluminescent wire and a deep cycle marine battery to power it (along with all my other LED camp lighting and small sound system).  Now I just need to shape the long EL wire into the words Recombobulation Station, probably using hot glue, wire ties and pegboard. 

Ideally, the sign can be changed to say either Decombobulation or Recombobulation Station with a simple switch between two sections of EL wire.  The electroluminescent wire will be visible at night, but I would need to paint the pegboard underneath the wire so that the words are legible in daylight.  I have some nice phosphorescent paint that will do the trick.

This is all just an idea and a plan right now.  And a plan is the first step towards not doing anything.

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Robot Art: Glitch Machine

Almost as much fun as building real robots, is drawing robots.  Designing robots is so much fun!  When I mentored a FIRST Technology Challenge team last year, we needed a mascot for our bot and a nice t-shirt design.  The kids and I sketched ideas on the whiteboard, then sent pictures of our sketch to my brother, who teaches art in Croatia.  Here is the final drawing from Jason Donald Boyd, art teacher, musician, and man of the world:

Robot Art: glitch machine full color

By Jason Donald Boyd, click to view larger image

This image is protected by the Creative Commons license 3.0.  If you copy and use this image in any way, online or printed, you must attribute the image to Jason Donald Boyd.

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